At Andorra Taste, chefs warned that the culinary heritage of the mountains would disappear if it was not protected

On the second day of the fourth Andorra Taste event, the audience at the Escaldes-Engordany auditorium embarked on a gastronomic journey through diverse culinary cultures. Despite the differences between these cuisines, the chefs demonstrated that there are also points of connection between all high mountain cuisines. Respect for the product and identification with the territory are two such constants, as demonstrated by chefs from countries as diverse as Georgia, Slovenia, Japan, Switzerland, Spain and Andorra itself.

Catalan chef Zineb Hattab, who is of Moroccan origin, highlighted the similarities between Switzerland and Andorra. These two alpine ecosystems share a pastoral tradition, which is reflected in the prevalence of dairy products in their traditional cuisines. Hattab is renowned for her vegetable-based cuisine at the KLE** restaurant in Zurich, Switzerland, and she approached the subject from this perspective. ‘Flavours are memories,’ she argued, ‘and you don't have to give them up or give up who you are because you've decided to eat vegetables.’ Based on this idea, Hattab gave a culinary lesson on how to connect with a place's tradition without it conflicting with your dietary choices. Among other dishes, she demonstrated this with a 'mel i mató' made with plant-based yoghurt (e.g. coconut or cashew) which, once blended, creates 'a thick spread that retains the fermented flavour of cheese', and plant-based honey made with beetroot and carrot sugar caramel.

Daduna Ghlonti, the chef at Skio (Gudairi), was responsible for showcasing the characteristics of Georgian cuisine, which comes from a country where more than half of the territory is mountainous. An ambassador for Georgian cuisine, Ghlonti has brought the flavours of her country to Andorra using some of the most common ingredients in Georgian cooking: 'We always cook with garlic, vinegar and coriander, and walnuts form the basis of many dishes.' One of her most traditional dishes is khinkali, a meat-filled dumpling. Khinkali is more than just a dish: 'It is a sign of hospitality, and the first one is always offered to the guest,' explained the chef, assuring us that 'Georgia tastes like hospitality'. In introducing the audience to 'the still largely unknown Georgian cuisine', Ghlonti wanted to highlight 'the great diversity of products that allow for different culinary traditions in a country of only three million people'. She mentioned the five varieties of wheat endemic to Georgia and the local cheeses from the mountainous regions as examples of this diversity, including dambalkacho, guda, narchvi, tenili and nadugi.

After Georgia, which is almost unknown, Andorra Taste turned its attention to popular Japan, with a chef who also has a presence in Andorra: Hideki Matsuhisa. Having come into contact with mountain cuisine at Koy Hermitage (Soldeu), Matsuhisa — who has his flagship restaurant, Koy Shunka*, in Barcelona — demonstrated in his presentation how culinary cultures can be connected without losing the essence of each one. He achieved this through umami, the 'savoury, flavour-enhancing taste' that Japanese cuisine takes special care to preserve. One of the best-known examples of umami in Japanese cuisine is dashi. Hideki has sought out 'zero-kilometre umami' in Andorra by replacing the bonito in dashi with trout. The result is a trout-bushi and dehydrated onion dashi that 'offers an alternative option for mountain umami with a Japanese twist'.

The Andorra Taste 2025 gastronomic tour included an obvious stop in the guest territory, where Slovenian chef Uroš Štefelin was present. Štefelin runs the two-Michelin-starred Hiša Linhar restaurant in Radovljica, in the Julian Alps. Štefelin recognised the work of producers 'whom we respect and treat fairly' and with whom he has a close working relationship, developing new products together and organising a monthly market for local produce. The chef emphasised the importance of acknowledging these local products because 'we are what we cook'.

High mountain cuisine as a horizon

Reflection on this topic continued on the second day of Andorra Taste, with the question: What is high mountain cuisine? Chefs Emmanuel Renaut (Flocons de Sel, Megève, France) and Carles Gaig (Can Manel, Andorra la Vella), Betim Budzaku (CEO of Andorra Turisme) and Benjamín Lana (general manager of Vocento Gastronomía) attempted to answer this question from different perspectives. Beyond the definition, the debate reflected the idea that 'high mountain gastronomy is a work in progress'; a concept aided by the nomenclature itself, as 'the label helps us to define ourselves, find ourselves, and share our enthusiasm', Lana explained. Budzaku added the national identity to this, fitting it into the equation of the tourist positioning that gastronomy can help Andorra achieve. From a culinary point of view, Renaut and Flinch emphasised the importance of protecting the heritage of the mountains, as otherwise it will disappear. The French chef, who is the co-founder and president of Toquicimes — a leading annual event dedicated to mountain gastronomy held in Megève — called on his fellow professionals to become 'guarantors of mountain products because they, along with the artisans and producers, are what make the difference'. Flinch recognised himself in these words and confirmed that 'protecting our environment is a cause that unites all mountain chefs'.

Chef Javier Olleros, an exponent of the new Galician cuisine from Culler de Pau*** in O Grove, Pontevedra, who practises a cuisine in perfect balance with the environment, also spoke about the importance of connection with nature at this International High Mountain Gastronomy Meeting. ‘Without nature, a chef ceases to be a chef,’ declared Olleros, urging his colleagues to ‘step out of the kitchen and into the territory’. He cited the example of Culler de Pau, where they have created their own vegetable garden, as inspiration, explaining that ‘when you are part of the territory, when you live it, you understand it’.

Mountain cuisine belongs to the people of the valleys and mountain ranges, but it is not exclusive. This was made clear at this Andorra Taste session by Catalan and French chefs who, from their respective cities of Barcelona and Toulouse, pay homage to this cuisine of the highlands. Jordi Vilà (Alkimia*), a staunch advocate of traditional Catalan cuisine, reflected on the future of this cuisine, which is so integral to mountain regions, and expressed his confidence in the younger generation to revive it. ‘It's true that recently, young chefs have been looking for a more authentic, visceral approach to cuisine. These are the first shoots, but there is still a deficit,’ he said. Vilà encouraged them to approach traditional cuisine not only with simple product preparations, but also with more labour-intensive techniques. On the Andorra Taste stage, he demonstrated this with a hare stew, a dish that requires time and expertise.

Meanwhile, Stéphane Tournié, head chef at Les Jardins de l'Opéra* in Toulouse, France, called for chefs to feel free to create using ingredients from both the sea and the mountains, ‘seeking a balance and symbiosis between both origins’.